I'm on a rest day in the Red River Gorge right now, staying here. I've decided to take it easy for our two week trip to give my body some down time and hopefully finish healing my finger. This is slightly frustrating but not too bad seeing as the conditions are not great.
I'm working on a post on periodization but until it's ready I thought I'd share my training plans and goals for the summer.
1. Active rest(May 1 - May 22): I would have rather done this some other time but my finger conspired against me. The first of these weeks I played around with some of the exercises which will become my goals for the summer. The second two are spent climbing at the red. The intention is to climb 2 or more number grades below my hardest redpoint.
2. Rock Climbing and Cross Training(May 22 - June 24): I should emphasize during this portion I plan to climb on actual rocks. I consider this to be not as effective for training versus climbing on plastic, but the idea is to ease my finger into functionality. Assuming the weather cooperates this gives me 10 days at Rumney to do some climbs I have been ignoring and four days bouldering. Here is the schedule
Monday: rest(maybe easy bike ride or run)
Tuesday: Rumney
Wednesday: Rumney
Thursday: AM: Fingerboard(maximum repeaters), one arm pull up pyramids, strength.
I'm working on a post on periodization but until it's ready I thought I'd share my training plans and goals for the summer.
1. Active rest(May 1 - May 22): I would have rather done this some other time but my finger conspired against me. The first of these weeks I played around with some of the exercises which will become my goals for the summer. The second two are spent climbing at the red. The intention is to climb 2 or more number grades below my hardest redpoint.
2. Rock Climbing and Cross Training(May 22 - June 24): I should emphasize during this portion I plan to climb on actual rocks. I consider this to be not as effective for training versus climbing on plastic, but the idea is to ease my finger into functionality. Assuming the weather cooperates this gives me 10 days at Rumney to do some climbs I have been ignoring and four days bouldering. Here is the schedule
Monday: rest(maybe easy bike ride or run)
Tuesday: Rumney
Wednesday: Rumney
Thursday: AM: Fingerboard(maximum repeaters), one arm pull up pyramids, strength.
PM: Metcon
Friday: AM: 8x500m rowing intervals
PM: 4x1/2 mile run.
Saturday: Bouldering, weighted one arm pull up pyramid.
Sunday: AM: Fingerboard(maximum hangs), one arm pull ups on holds, strength.
Strength: iron cross
Saturday: Bouldering, weighted one arm pull up pyramid.
Sunday: AM: Fingerboard(maximum hangs), one arm pull ups on holds, strength.
PM: 2000m row and 1 mile run. Metcon.
All of the finger board work will be open handed(not even 1/2 crimp) focusing on one arm hangs on bigger holds.
3. Adaptation to Serious Training(June 25-July 5) This is a transition from training for my non-climbing goals to a more serious training for climbing. I'll test my current level by doing a couple of finger board sets as listed here, and revisit the campus board and my bouldering wall.
4. Training(July 6 - August 10) This is the hottest part of the year and thus best for focusing on training and not actual climbing. I plan to follow this approximate schedule:
PM: Campus board power endurance.
Tuesday: AM: Metcon
PM: Timed climbing intervals.
PM: Campus board maximum efforts, bouldering.
PM: Metcon
Friday: rest or easy bike ride/run.
Saturday: Rumney
Sunday: Rumney
5. Rifle, CO(August 11-August 27) Earlier this year 6 weeks the above training program gave me the fitness to send China Beach so if everything goes well I should have pretty good fitness for this trip.
Goals:
Here is a list of my non-climbing related goals for the summer.
Rowing: 2000m: under 7:00(best so far 7:24)
1000m: under 3:20(best so far 3:29)
500m: under 1:30(best so far 1:37)
Running: mile: under 6:00
800m: under 2:30
400m: under 1:00
Strength: iron cross
front lever pull up(I can do this straddled now)
one arm standing ab wheel
one arm pull up +20lbs(I've done one +10lbs).